By Katie George
Hundreds of people in more than 20 states feast on Lee’s brisket—yet only one person knows the recipe. “I have the recipe written down in a locked safe,” said Lee Biery, owner of Lee’s Country Market.
Lee Biery started his brisket business in the back of his rural grocery store in Clyde, Kansas in 1984. Inspired by an ancient smoker in the back of the store that was formerly used to smoke bacon and ham, he decided to formulate his own brisket recipe.
After refurbishing the old smoker, he spent three months in trial and error before he reached the perfect combination of seasonings for the flavor he desired. Also, he discovered if the heat source is placed on the side of the brisket, the heat penetrates the whole brisket through convection. Therefore, all the meat cooks thoroughly, and tenderness is maximized because the bottom does not dry out.
Biery introduced his brisket to the public by selling brisket sandwiches in the deli of his grocery store. After a few months, he offered whole briskets of twelve to twenty-five servings to customers.
After ten years, Biery sold his grocery store, but his brisket operation was so successful he acquired a mobile license so he would not be constricted to selling his briskets from one place. The license allows Biery to operate from various locations, much like Texas Red and other mobile food stands.
In 1996 Biery purchased a smoker from the state fair in Hutchison. Since then he has operated his brisket business from his home in Clyde.
Christmas and New Years are the busiest time of year for Biery. Between the two holidays he smokes on average 160 to 170 briskets for customers to share with their families and friends.
“One year a lady picked up four [briskets], packed them in her suitcase, and flew them to California,” Biery said.
With so many brisket orders, Biery needs assistance preparing the briskets. His two grandsons, Michael Biery and Brett Biery, defat, season, and wrap the briskets. Biery then smokes the meat with hickory chips.
How, then, is Lee Biery the only person that knows the recipe?
Biery has a special formula for the seasoning he uses. Before his two grandsons prepare the briskets, Biery premixes the seasoning for them to use.
“The recipe has Brett and Michael’s names on it, so if anything happens to me, someone has the recipe,” Biery said, “I’ve been selling my brisket for 25 years, and the business is continually growing. Someone will need to carry on the business after I’m gone.”
Although he refuses to share his brisket recipe, Lee has disclosed his formula for Brisket and Noodle Soup. By using the juice that is cooked off from the smoked briskets, the flavor and seasoning from the meat creates an infusion of savory beef and egg noodles.
Brisket and Noodle Soup
From Lee Biery
3 pints juice from cooked brisket
9 pints water
3 pounds egg noodles
3 pounds Lee’s Brisket, cut into 1”x1” chunks
Combine brisket juice and water in a 12-quart stock pot. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat.
Add the egg noodles to the pot and boil six minutes. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer until the noodles are tender. Noodles should not be rubbery or crunchy.
Stir in the brisket and continue simmering until the meat is hot. The soup can be served immediately, or can simmer on low heat for two to three hours. Remember that simmering soup for a greater length of time intensifies the flavor.
Makes 40 one-cup servings
Note: Replacing egg noodles with Amish dry noodles will cut back on cholesterol. Various vegetables such as celery, carrots, and onions added in with the meat deepen the flavor and help to thicken up the soup. To make a heartier meal of the recipe, serve the soup over mashed potatoes.
