In Defense of Food: An Eater’s Manifesto
By Michael Pollan – Penguin Group
By Catherine Metzgar
Question: What should humans eat to be healthy?
Answer: Eat food. Not too much. Mostly plants.
These three seemingly simple rules for how humans should eat are offered by Michael Pollan in his book In Defense of Food: An Eater’s Manifesto. But the three guidelines are more complicated and confusing than they appear.
Pollan examines the influences on the American diet and the ever constant obsession with health in today’s society. So what exactly drives the American diet? In a word, our culture, which according to Pollan is just a fancy word for Mom.
She used to tell children what and how much to eat. Now, scientists and the food industry have replaced moms. They have their own perplexing claims of which foods are best and which nutrients should be consumed.
Americans are obsessed with their food choices and resultant health effects. Ironically, we suffer from the most diet-related health problems when compared to other nations.
Low-fat. No-cholesterol. High-fiber. High in antioxidants. Claims such as these, supposedly based on science, flood the supermarket in order to promote products that allegedly benefit our health.
Pollan argues the need for a paradigm shift as multiple research studies present contradictory evidence.
One contradictory study includes the association between trans fat and heart disease. During the low-fat craze, the consumption of trans fat was strongly encouraged. Further examination showed a high intake of trans fat can actually contribute to an increased risk of heart disease. Confusing? Yes.
Also mystifying to Pollan is the concept of the nutrient. Most times nutrients are studied individually, when in reality single nutrients are not consumed alone. Instead of eating nutrients, humans eat foods. Studying nutrients, rather than food leaves humans with unanswered questions of the actual effects of food on health, he writes.
Strongly convincing is Pollan’s argument that humans should start thinking about food as less of a thing and as more of a relationship. Pollan advocates that in order to develop a relationship, it may be important to follow the traditional ways of food consumption (think your great-grandma) rather than following the latest fad diet or health craze.
Health related to food is not necessarily the survival of the fittest. Our bodies will not eventually adapt to the negative effects of continuous fast food consumption on our health. Instead of trying to solve the diet problem, Americans turn to healthcare – another hot topic in today’s society.
While negative aspects of food, nutrients, science and the food industry are a strong component of the book, Pollan offers advice on how to follow the three simple guidelines he expresses in defense of food.
Pollan provides his definition of food and uses humor and wit to provide guidance on food selection. Pollan advises avoiding products with unfamiliar and unpronounceable ingredients, products with more than five ingredients, and products that include high fructose corn syrup. Basically, avoid anything that would confuse your great- grandma.
Other food advice from Pollan includes avoiding products with health claims and getting out of the supermarket whenever possible. A health claim serves as a red flag because a product must be packaged to make a health claim, and a packaged food is more likely to be processed. Health claims are often based on incomplete evidence as well. Getting out of the supermarket means shopping at farmers’ markets where processed foods and artificial ingredients are hard to find.
Eat mostly plants. It’s unclear why plants are beneficial, but research does show they are good for health, Pollan writes. Meat appears to be unnecessary as every nutrient in meat can be obtained through plant foods except for B12 which is only needed in small amounts.
In his not-too-much rule, Pollan describes exactly how one should eat. He urges to pay for quality rather than quantity for the best health. The importance of meals and internal cues are also stressed.
One controversial topic presented in the book is the avoidance of high fructose corn syrup. This issue raises some questions as it is the center of current research examining whether there are actually negative health effects. Telling people to eat only plants has upset those in the beef industry as well. The book has also raised issues concerning research funding and sponsorship from companies looking to make health claims.
Although food is often viewed as a downfall to our nation’s health and well-being, Pollan offers three basic rules in defense of food. With strong arguments and guidance for each of these rules, Pollan has clearly done his research to support his opinions in defense of food and how humans should eat to obtain optimal health.
